Natural Environment

Traveling the Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway is a thrilling and unforgettable “peak” experience with awe-inspiring natural surprises around every bend – majestic giant sequoias, craggy granite boulder monsters, lacy dogwood blossoms, ancient volcanic peaks, gnarled junipers, deep forests, spectacular open canyon vistas, billowing clouds, delicate cascading waterfalls, meandering rivers, brilliant quaking aspen, fragrant meadows of prolific native wildflowers, and pristine alpine lakes right at the road’s shoulder.

While driving along the highway, travelers will encounter a spectacular palette of colors – bright blue sky, billowing white clouds, the shocking red of tall cedar trunks, and the deep green foliage of mixed conifer forests.

A traveler would be hard-pressed to drive the route without stopping and exploring some if its bountiful treasures.

The Stanislaus and Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forests manage many habitat types for wildlife along this route. At least 325 wildlife and 18 fish species have made this region their home.

Large mammals commonly found within this area include Mule Deer, Black Bear, Mountain Lion, Bobcat, Grey Fox, Striped Skunk, Spotted Skunk, Coyote, Raccoon, Marmot, Porcupine, Beaver, Western Gray Squirrel, Ground Squirrels, and Chickaree, One would have to look harder to spot the following mammals that make their home within the corridor; Fisher, Pine Marten, Ringtail, Red Fox, Mink, Weasel, Badger, and Northern Flying Squirrel.

Both migratory and resident bird populations take flight along the highway corridor. Woodpeckers, ravens, flycatchers, nuthatches, owls, warblers, finches, sapsuckers, swallows, juncos, jays, wrens, vireos, blackbirds, towhees, robins, grosbeaks, sparrows, swifts, hummingbirds, and chickadees are found in this region, generally with several species of each group. During the spring and early summer, avid birders can observe the many species of warblers that pass through the area and water loving birds such as sandpipers, Pacific loons, mergansers, various ducks, grebes, American dippers, egrets, gulls, Canada geese, and great blue herons may be observed in or around reservoirs, lakes, streams, and ponds.

Additionally, a number of game birds make this area home including: blue grouse, ruffed grouse, mountain quail, band-tailed pigeon, and mourning dove. Raptors that may be seen include red-tailed hawk, sharp-shinned hawk, Cooper’s hawk, and American kestrel and. turkey vulture.

A rare but not unheard of sighting would include species such as the osprey, golden eagle, spotted owl, great gray owl, goshawk, white-headed woodpecker, pileated woodpecker, bald eagle, and peregrine falcon.

There are 17 species of fish in nearby lakes, streams, and rivers. Trout are the most widespread including , Rainbow, Brook, and Brown trout, and the endangered Lahontan Cutthroat. There are both native and planted species of trout throughout the corridor.

The most common amphibian is the Pacific tree frog, sometimes called the chorus frog. As its name implies, it is more often heard than seen. Additionally three common reptiles are present in the vicinity: garter snakes, alligator lizards, and western fence lizards.

A trip on the Ebbetts Pass Byway will reveal a rich diversity of the vegetative landscape as the traveler rises from the valley floor to the cooler elevations of the pine and fir tree forest. Each elevation range has its own sequence of change in vegetative patterns. In the Sierra Nevada, the plants and animals are distributed in a series of “life zones”, which are grouped in lengthwise (horizontal) belts. The premise is that different plants and animals need and thrive in different conditions such as amount of water available, optimum temperatures, plentiful food source, and shelter or hiding cover.

These “life zones” most commonly relate to a range (or “belt”) of elevation conditions. In lower elevations the vegetation is dryer, except for streams and adjacent riparian areas that host among other plants, ferns and Alder trees. Mountain meadows can be found in the higher elevations and also contain moisture-loving plants. The vegetation distribution of the Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway route is split into five distinct belts:

• Yellow Pine Belt, or lower coniferous forest, stretching from Arnold to Dorrington at approximately 1200-6500 ft elevation;
• Lodgepole Pine – Red Fir Belt; from Dorrington to Bear Valley at 6500-8000 ft;
• Sub-Alpine Belt of whitebark pine and mountain hemlock, 7000-8000 ft; Bear Valley to the top of Ebbetts Pass;
• Alpine Belt the high peaks above the timberline of the 8000ft – 14,000 ft. Sagebrush Belt from the top of the pass over to the east side of the range to Markleeville is the scattering of pinion pine and Jeffery Pine and the high desert.

The boundaries on the edge of these “belts” are not definite as there is a transitional and gentle overlapping and interlacing of plant species within these belts.

At the beginning of the route in Arnold, the vegetation landscape consists of pine, fir, cedar, oak, maple, and dogwood trees. In the early summer, the favorite viewing spots for dogwood blossoms are along the highway between Arnold and Calaveras Big Trees State Park, where these trees line the wet riparian areas. Within the Park boundaries are the amazing groves of the giant sequoia, which are among the largest and oldest species known. These magnificent giants are part of only a few remaining remnant populations that are scattered within the state. Measuring 32 feet in circumference and 220 feet tall, the 3rd largest Sugar Pine in the world resides at a Girl Scout Camp in Dorrington. From Arnold to well above Dorrington, the Black Oaks and the Big Leaf Maple trees will announce the closing of summer with vibrant fall colors. Aspen, located in the higher elevations, are the next to display glorious colors in preparation for winter. By the 5500 to 7500 ft. elevation, Lodgepole Pine, Silver Pine, Jeffrey Pine, Red Fir, and Sierra Juniper dominate the landscape.

Ebbetts Pass is not only about trees. The Sierra Nevada puts on a colorful show in Spring and Summer with vast displays of wildflowers. With typically cooler summers at the higher elevations, the flora will bloom later in the season lupine pair up with the State flower, the California orange poppy and yellow wallflowers. High country meadows will exhibit more flowers including corn lilies and Penstemon.

The cultural legacy of the Sierra landscape has changed over time. Archaeological evidence suggests that Native American peoples may have influenced the landscape for over 10,000 years. Research further suggests that the Miwok and Washoe peoples tended and manipulated the landscape for over 2,000 years in a much more dynamic way than once thought. Early accounts of the Sierra mention how “park-like” the mountains appeared in support of Native people’s reference to burning, pruning, and otherwise cleaning out the undergrowth. With increased understanding of Native American land management practices, our view of the ecological role of fire has expanded.

For countless generations, the Miwok and Washoe used the summit as a meeting ground to exchange items such as obsidian and acorns. The Miwok followed the sequence of flowering plants, ripening seeds, and migration tides of animals throughout the Sierra gradient. Tribal knowledge of plants, insects, animals, birds, rocks, and weather was and continues to be immense which helps to maintain and improve their quality of life.

This tie to the land continues to strengthen as Miwok people work with the Forest Service and other agencies to secure and protect plant gathering areas and areas of cultural significance.

Explorers, miners, and then emigrants traveled throughout this region in the mid 19th century in search of riches and a new life. When silver was discovered in the 1850’s the area quickly grew and settlements, of which the remnants you can still find along the corridor, were established. Chapter 1 of this document covers the historic makeup of this region in greater detail.

The area’s historic and Native American cultural resources represent a variety of land use themes still visible in the Sierra today. Historically, emigrant travel and mineral exploits led to homesteading, cattle grazing, and timber production. Evidence of these themes can still be seen from the rust marks of countless wagon wheels on granite rock to historic cow camps deep in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.

Additional material can be found in the History section of this site.

The term “high sierra” relates to alpine areas above the main forest zone at 8000′ elevation and above. The land is characterized by glacier- carved open peaks and basins. 100 million years ago vast amounts of molten granite were injected into and under the overlaying strata and crystallized into a huge mass of solid granite. The forces of erosion over time began to expose the granite. 60-70 million years ago, this granite mass was uplifted on the east side, creating a steep eastern and gentle westward slope. A series of volcanic flows covered portions of the central sierra. Beginning about 12 million years ago, the entire range was uplifted several thousand feet along the faults of the eastern flank. The increased grade accelerated the cutting action of westward flowing streams. As the crest of the sierra was thrust above snowline, glaciers formed, sculpting the high country, mostly during the last 1 million years. This area, received great supplies of moisture-laden air from the Pacific and a large ice cap formed. Only the highest peaks protruded from this mass. 1500-foot thick glaciers sculpted the sides of these mountains and canyons below as they slowly advanced.

Today most of the prominent peaks within the Byway corridor are remnant volcanic flows that stood above the glaciers. They have successfully resisted erosion for millions of years. The valleys below generally were scoured to the granite bedrock. This is apparent at Lake Alpine and many other locations where volcanic bluffs form the skyline with sculpted granite bedrock in the foreground. Evidence of the glaciers exist along the roadside near Big Meadow. Huge boulders were stripped from the highcountry and plowed to the side as the glacier advanced. These “erratics” litter both sides of the highway through this zone. They now rest more than 1000′ above the river that was filled with icy debris to this level. The last glacier ended its advance creating a terminal moraine in the Arnold area about 13,000 years ago.